Christmas on the farm hughes farm chivilcoy argentina sacrificial lamb horseback riding
Argentina, Culture, Travel

Christmas on the Farm | Chivilcoy, Argentina

Christmas on the Farm: Hughes Family Hospitality

My first Christmas away from home was spent devoid of the suffocating commercialism that we call the holidays; away from the pressure of buying obligatory gifts for white elephants, secret Santas and half relatives you’ve never met prior to Christmas.  Pessimism aside, I did miss being around my family but we were kindly taken in by David’s parents and his brother for the Christmas weekend and we totaled 9 foreigners, us 5 Americans and 4 Australians, who were introduced to farm living.

Being a guest on a 4,000 acre farm has its perks and drawbacks.

Perk:  Ample space to run around and be free as a bird

Drawback: It takes 8 minutes to walk from the kitchen to the picnic table outside, so you’d better not forget the forks!

Perk:  Delicious and fresh home-cooked meals

Drawback:   By fresh, I mean recently killed, right before your eyes and by home-cooked I mean potentially waking up around 9am to assist Mrs. Hughes in some cooking endeavors

Perk:  Horseback riding at sunset along the farm’s perimeter, watching the sky turn purple and pink

Drawback: Horseback riding at sunset along the farm’s perimeter, watching two of your friends fly off their horses in an all-out horse pursuit.

On Christmas Eve’s eve, we awoke early to find that the Gauchos on the farm had slaughtered the sacrificial lamb and we had arrived just in time to watch them skin and gut him.  Silence of the Lamb has taken on an entirely new meaning.  After an entire day of eating nothing but lamb and having plenty leftover, I’m sure I’ll steer clear for a while.  Christmas eve was spent helping Laura, David’s mom, prepare for dinner and a few things for Christmas lunch.  Mr. Hughes took us on a tour of the farm as we were pulled via tractor through the recently harvested wheat and barley fields.  We also learned a lot about the agriculture of soy and corn and clearly saw the passion Mr. Hughes carried for farming. The pool fulfilled our R&R needs and later, as the sun was setting, we embarked on a very brief journey on horseback through the farm. Brief due to  Nick, Kip’s nephew who rode for the first time, having difficulty controlling his horse as he was taken away at lightning speed through the wheat fields.  David chased him on horseback, later resulting in one disheveled, injured gaucho and one distraught gringo.  This was the end of our sunset ride.  At midnight, we all toasted by the fire pit under the stars to Christmas and to David’s birthday.

The following morning was Christmas and we were asked to be up bright and early to help with preparing the outdoor lunch tables before Christmas lunch was served and Laura’s sister and her family arrived to join us.  We ate, we sang, we drank, we indulged in the beautiful summer weather and us Americans skyped with families from back home to wish them a Merry Christmas and gloat about the warmth.  I couldn’t have asked for a more genuine Christmas experience.  Thank you to the Hughes family for making us feel at home!

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Mendoza Wine Country Argentina Malbec Mr Hugo's wine bike tour river rafting horseback riding
Argentina, Travel

Mendoza Wine Country | Argentina

Mendoza Wine Country

 

A week in Mendoza offered a week of relaxation, adventure and surprises.  Kip and I decided to splurge on our 12-hour bus ride with Chevallier and get seats labeled “Cama Ejecutivo”, which included leather seats that reclined 180 degrees,  a small individual television and headset, blanket, eye covers, wine service, wi-fi, chocolate and a pastry –  a dinner that was surprisingly too much to finish – and finally, coffee and juices for the morning. The U.S. could learn a little from Argentina about quality bus service.  Greyhound is a joke. We arrived to a sunny and humid Mendoza around 11am the following morning after an all-too comfortable bus ride through the night.  We stayed at Hostel Empedrado for the first night only (which was recommended to me by someone in my first hostel I stayed at in BsAs) since the first hostel we had booked didn’t have the first night available and found it very quaint and perfect for socializing.  While it is quite a few blocks away from the main plaza, it was still less than a 15 minute walk.  We met a few Brits here who we later randomly encountered again on the bus to go wine tasting and ended up forming a fun little group for the bike wine tour. All the more emphasizing why hostels serve such a great purpose! The next day we moved our things to the sister hostel, Hostel Mora, which is a bit more tranquil but just as beautiful and new.

Adventure:

Wine Tasting Bike Tour-  Ask any young person who’s been to Mendoza where and how to go wine tasting and they’ll all tell you one name:  MR. HUGO’S.  This little, yet wildly popular, bike company run by none other than Mr. Hugo himself has made a name for his himself in the traveling community.  Firstly, you need to take a 30-minute local bus ride out to Maipu but fear not, there’s only one bus number  and every bus driver knows where you’re going if you say Mr. Hugo’s.  It was the day after Halloween so our bus was filled with spirited foreigners dressed in wigs, capes and spandex tights which made me sweat just looking at them because it had to have been at least 85 degrees or hotter outside.  Once you arrive at Mr. Hugo’s, you’re somehow no longer in the quiet town of Maipu but in backyard tropical oasis, complete with free pitchers of wine, a bottle of water and party music to set the mood for an entire day of peddling. Starting before 12pm is key because not only are there lots of wineries to see but they’re fairly spaced apart even for biking.  It was suggested to us to go to Familia Di Tomasso first, which is the furthest and the nicest of the wineries and work our way back inwards.  We made it to two wineries and a tiny bohemian beer garden tucked far from the main road before surrendering to the heat  and drunken stupor, thus calling it quits.  Afterwards, more wine awaited us and at the end of the night, Mr. Hugo makes it a point to walk you to the bus stop and wait until the bus arrives. Great business etiquette!

The rest of the week was followed by river rafting and horseback riding in the Andes and venturing out to a club full of locals where a cover band played classic latin rock songs which we pretended to know.  The next post will contain pertinent information about what happens when a 7-year anniversary trip turns into an all-out proposal….

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